![]() ![]() ![]() You could rig up the same thing with a hi-lift jack and a pipe sized to fit over the post. But I never had a problem.įor trees too small to wedge, I can see the value in being much faster than setting up ropes. I can see the concern about having metal near there. I would simply use this on smaller trees to replace the chainsaw for the last inch or so of regular cutting to get the hinge cut. I would never use it to replace ropes for spooky trees. Then I would crank until the tree was falling enough. Then I would pull the saw out and set it in a good spot. I just didn't saw the hinge through as much as I otherwise would. All I'm saying is that the timbertool was quick and easy and I just felt much safer. Paul wheaton wrote:I've dropped a lot of trees without the timbertool and quite a few with. I now have a nice deck of logs ready for my bandsaw mill. The friend who wanted those dead trees gone and gave them to me, immediately hired the faller to do some other trees on his place. Still it was a tricky job with that dry brittle heartwood being iffy for the holding wood when felling them. All the sapwood was rotten but the hearts were good. Then a couple weeks back, I had him dump over 12 long dead Port Orford cedars on a friend's land. He did that one with his plastic falling wedges. The other one was alive, 42"X26" on the stump (34" where it gets round), with all the limbs on the wrong side. The first was dead, 28 inches on the stump, and was leaning the right way, and its limbs were on that side too. They were on the same stump and had to be felled individually. I just had him drop two 150 foot Doug firs. He's getting old and I hope he doesn't retire too soon. When I have any doubts, I have a great tree guy who works for less than can be believed. While I have been dropping trees for over 40 years, I still get into jams. ![]()
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